Sewing Guidelines

General Suggestions:

We want most of all for the 4H'ers to enjoy their sewing and want to do more.   Ribbons and premiums are fun but what is most important is liking what you have created, wanting to use or wear it, and wanting to do more.

If you made mistakes one year, learn from that and do it better the next.  Judges' comments are to help you and that is why we use comment sheets at the fair judging, and also at the evaluation time during the Personal Appearance workshop.

WEARING GARMENTS -- We encourage 4H'ers to wear their garments.  Sign of wear are not causes to be judged down.  As long as the garment is clean and mended before the judging, it will be fine.

STYLE SHOW -- is completely different than the construction evaluation or judging.   The Style Show Evaluation is based on how the garment looks on the person, how s\well they present themselves, their grooming, posture, etc.  There are separate guidelines for the Style Show that explain the procedure , give suggestions for the participants, etc.  It is important to get these from the 4H office.

PERSONAL APPEARANCE WORKSHOP -- is offered a few weeks prior to the Style Show in the Spring. This is planned to have several sessions of interest to all project areas of Personal Appearance in construction and for Style Show.  One session that is always available for sewers is an evaluation time with the judges (usually some who will be judging at the Fair).  Bring your sewing project (whether it is to worn or not) even if it is not completed.  The judges can then assist you with any problems, offer suggestions if any changes are needed before completing for the Fair.  This can be very valuable time for the member and leader -- take advantage of it!!!

RESOURCES AND LEARNING AIDS -- The 4H Office has quantities of very good materials supplied by various pattern companies, sewing supply companies and the Extension Service. These are available at no or low cost.
                    Let's Sew!  A Beginner's Sewing Guide by Nancy Zieman
                    4H Cooperative Curriculum System series:  Exploring Textiles & Sewing
                                    Level 1 - Sew and Have Fun!
                                    Level 2 - Sew Much More!
                                    Level 3 - Sew On & Sew Forth!
                                    Group Activity Guide - Helper's Guide
                    Many instructional leaflets from Simplicity and McCall's

Invest in some good sewing instruction books -- they are a terrific help.  There are often several techniques that are satisfactory to accomplish a sewing skill and these will help you find the one you like the best.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION -- Include the pattern instructions sheet with the exhibit if you put it in a plastic bag and pin it to the exhibit, but please don't bring it loose. If an unusual technique was used and you wish to explain it, write it on a note or card and fasten it to the garment.

PROJECT RECORD SHEETS -- are available at the Extension office.  This is used for information for the Judges.  One is required to be attached to each sewing project entered.  (This replaces the old cost card)

PROJECT REQUIREMENTS

  1. We try to keep the actual requirements to a minimum and offer a lot of suggestions on the following pages for skills and fabrics and types of patterns for each age group.
  2. 4H'ers, leaders and parents should be aware of the fact, though, that the member needs to choose something s/he is capable of making themselves with guidance, without getting totally frustrated, and yet something with some skills as they progress each year.
  3. They should not assume the judges will understand and that it is all right that they picked too difficult a pattern and then did a poor job on it.
  4. They should not plan to have someone do the difficult skills for them.  If they have assistance and guidance, that is different, but someone should not do the work for them.
  5. When there are actual requirements, they will be stated in the next sections and classes of the fair book are discussed.

FAIR BOOK - SEWING DIVISION

Guidelines are provided with the judges' materials at the time of judging so they are available for reference during the judging.  Judges can also get them ahead of time so they are familiar with the suggestions the 4H'ers have been following.

Judges do not see the names of the exhibitors until the judging is completed and they do not do any judging on the exhibits from their own clubs if they are involved with a local club.

Section 1 -- Beginners Ages 9, 10, 11

    Class 1:  First Year Sewing
                    EXHIBIT REQUIREMENT: Exhibit should be an article (or articles) showing:
                                1) Seams
                                2) Pressing
                                3) At least one of the following skills:
                                        A. Gathering
                                        B. Casing for elastic
                                        C. Some type of facing such as neckband, wristband, sleeve, etc.
                                        D. Hand stitched hems

SUGGESTED SKILLS TO BE LEARNING:

  1. Patterns - choosing, measuring, pinning and cutting
  2. Sewing a straight seam
  3. Seam finishes
  4. Hemming by hand - blind hems
  5. Gathering
  6. Facings - either at neck, sleeve or waistband
  7. Pressings
  8. Sewing on a hook and eye
  9. Casing for elastic band
  10. Attaching and turning straps or ties
  11. Easy mending or repairs

    Class 2: First or Second Year Sewing
                    EXHIBIT REQUIREMENTS: in addition to the previously learned skills.
                                1. This exhibit should have at least one of the following:
                                        a) zipper
                                        b) buttonholes
                                        c) set-in sleeves

SUGGESTED SKILLS TO BE LEARNING IN ADDITION TO CLASS 1:

  1. Putting in zippers
  2. Making a dart
  3. Simple pleats
  4. Set-in sleeves
  5. More difficult facings - under stitching or stitch-in-the-ditch
  6. Grading seam allowances
  7. Buttons and buttonholes
  8. Stay-stitching
  9. Pockets
  10. Some top stitching
  11. More mending and repair techniques
  12. Attaching trim binding

Class 3: Second or third year of sewing
                    EXHIBIT REQUIREMENTS: choose from list of articles from class 2 but increase skills using a more difficult pattern, etc.

SUGGESTED SKILLS TO BE LEARNING IN ADDITION TO CLASS 1 and CLASS 2:

  1. Top stitching
  2. Multiple pleats or unusual arrangements of pleats
  3. Special pressing and steaming
  4. Using special pressing and shaping tools
  5. Interfacing
  6. Creasing slacks
  7. Special care for napped fabrics

Suggested Fabrics to work with for first year:

  1. Cotton -- medium weight
  2. Woven blends -- medium weight
  3. Knit -- medium weight

Fabric to Avoid -- Slippery, Velveteen, Challis

Suggested Fabrics to work with in addition to Class 1: 2nd & 3rd year:

  1. Heavier cottons and cotton blends
  2. Denims
  3. Double knits
  4. Terry or stretch terry
  5. Flannel
  6. Lightweight corduroy
  7. Lightweight suede
  8. Lightweight velour
  9. Single knits
  10. Cotton knits

Suggested Articles to make for the first year:

  1. Slacks
  2. Shorts
  3. Skirt
  4. Dress
  5. Nightgown
  6. Apron
  7. Vest

Suggested Articles to make for the second year and third year:

  1. Slacks or skirt and vest
  2. Dress
  3. Nightwear
  4. Sportswear - shorts and top, easy jumpsuit, etc.
  5. Parka or game vest

 

Section 2 -- Intermediate Ages 12, 13, 14

    Class 1:  Age and year in project are considered when judging in Intermediate Class
                   

EXHIBIT REQUIREMENT: Each year the member advances should show progress in learning new skills and working with different fabrics.

SUGGESTED SKILLS TO BE LEARNING IN ADDITION TO ANY IN SECTION 1:

  1. Matching plaids and stripes
  2. Piping and decorative seaming
  3. Linings and under linings
  4. Tucks, tiny pleats, decorative stitched like smocking, etc.
  5. Appropriate seams and finishes for garments and fabrics
  6. Various types of button attachment, particularly for heavy fabrics
  7. Restyling techniques

SUGGESTED FABRICS TO WORK WITH IN ADDITION TO ANY IN SECTION 1:

  1. Corduroy
  2. Velour
  3. Gabardine
  4. Wool and wool blends and acrylics
  5. Canvas
  6. Quilted fabrics
  7. Plaids, matching patterns, border prints, etc.

SUGGESTED ARTICLES TO MAKE:

  1. Sportswear - 1 or more pieces appropriate for a specific sport or casual wear
  2. Daytime wear - 1 or more pieces for school, work, church, etc.
  3. Nightwear - robe, gown, pajamas or a set

Section 3 -- Advanced Ages 15, 16, 17, 18, 19

EXHIBIT REQUIREMENT: age and year in the project will be taken into consideration by the judges, so a first year 17 year old will enter in advanced but it would be noted that it is a first year.  There are categories, particularly like sportswear or daytime wear, that the first year ADVANCED member could participate in satisfactorily.

  1. Sportswear - 1 or more pieces appropriate for a specific sport or for casual wear.
  2. Daytime wear - an outfit or 1 or more pieces appropriate for school, church, or work, etc.
  3. Evening wear - a dressy outfit consisting of 1 or more pieces; if a dress, it can be long or short.
  4. Outerwear - coats or jackets of any length, using medium to heavy weight fabric.
  5. Wardrobe - Consisting of at least 4 exhibits from the other classes - from sportswear, outer wear, evening wear, daytime wear (ex: dress, coat, suit, slacks outfit)
  6. Sewing Collections - two or three items for beginner - three or four items for intermediate and advance non-wearable items. (ie: tote bag, curtains, place mats, etc)

SUGGESTED SKILLS

  1. Tailoring
  2. Lapels
  3. Bound Buttonholes
  4. Additional restyling and repairing techniques
  5. Any other skills not previously listed

SUGGESTED FABRICS TO WORK WITH IN ADDITION TO ALL IN SECTIONS 1 AND 2:

  1. Velvets and velveteen
  2. Satin, silk, taffeta - any slippery fabric
  3. Gauze, chiffon, Georgette - any sheer fabric
  4. Furs, fake or real - fleece fabrics
  5. Lingerie fabrics
  6. Any other type of fabrics not previously listed

LAST CHECK BEFORE ENTERING:

  1. Basting threads gone
  2. Raveled edges and seam edges all trimmed
  3. Hems secure - even - snug - threads hidden
  4. Seams finished
  5. Darts flat! - tied off or secured with no puckers or bulk
  6. Seams allowances graded if necessary - pressed open, or correctly
  7. 1 entry tag plus identification slips on extra pieces
  8. All hooks and eyes or snaps properly secure
  9. Facing tacked
  10. Garment or exhibit cleaned and pressed neatly
  11. Project Report Form